
Making soap from scratch can be a fun and rewarding experience, but it requires a basic understanding of the process and the right ingredients. The soap making formula is a crucial part of this process, and it's what sets a good soap apart from a mediocre one.
The lye concentration, which is typically 30% lye to 70% water, is a key component of the soap making formula. This ratio is crucial in determining the soap's pH level and hardness.
To create a well-balanced soap, you'll need to carefully measure out your ingredients, including the lye, oils, and fragrances. A general rule of thumb is to use a combination of oils with different fatty acid profiles to create a soap that's both moisturizing and cleansing.
Check this out: Ingredients in Soap Making
Ingredients
To make soap, you'll need a few key ingredients.
Coconut oil and olive oil are essential, with 450g of each needed for a basic recipe.
You'll also need water, specifically 297g of it.
Step 1: Supplies
To make your soap-making project a success, you'll need the right supplies. You'll need a microwave safe glass measuring cup for accurately measuring ingredients. A cutting board is also essential for preparing your soap base.
You'll need a sharp chef's knife to cut your soap base into smaller pieces. Small spoons or wooden stir sticks will come in handy for mixing and stirring your soap mixture. Soap molds are necessary for shaping your soap into the desired form.
You can use glycerine soap base, which is a popular choice for soap makers. Alternatively, you can use shea butter soap base for a moisturizing soap. Both types of soap base require liquid soap coloring to add color to your soap.
Here's a list of the essential supplies you'll need:
- Microwave safe glass measuring cup
- Cutting board
- Sharp chef's knife
- Small spoons or wooden stir sticks
- Soap molds
- Glycerine soap base
- Shea butter soap base
- Liquid soap coloring
- Essential oils
Prepare oils, fats, and waxes
To prepare your oils, fats, and waxes, start by weighing 500g of coconut oil into a bowl. This will be the base of your soap mixture.
Melt any solid oils before transferring them to the bowl, as this will make them easier to mix with the other ingredients.
If you're using beeswax, melt it with the solid oils at this stage. This will help the wax dissolve evenly.
At this point, all your ingredients except the lye solution should be in the bowl, ready to be mixed together.
Make sure to have a soap mould prepared and some towels handy, as you'll need these to shape and dry your soap later on.
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Add Oil Mix
To add the oil mix to your soap recipe, start by combining the required amount of oil - we used 51.2 ounces of olive oil, but feel free to experiment with different oils like coconut oil.
For a simple soap formula, you'll want to use a combination of oils that work well together. In Example 3, the Olive Oil Soap Recipe #1 uses a single type of oil, but you can mix and match different oils to create unique blends.
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When mixing the oil mixture, make sure to add the lye solution slowly while stirring slowly, as shown in Example 4. This will help prevent the soap mixture from getting too thick too quickly.
The soap mixture will begin to thicken as you mix it, eventually resembling cake batter. To get the perfect consistency, aim for a mix that's similar to the one shown in Example 4.
Here's a list of common oils used in soap-making, along with their melting points:
By using a combination of oils with different melting points, you can create a soap recipe that's tailored to your specific needs.
Soap Making Process
To make soap, you'll need a few essential tools and ingredients, including a slow-cooker or non-aluminium bowl, a digital scale, a stick blender, and soap moulds. Make sure your work area is clean, ventilated, and out of reach of children, as lye can be caustic until mixed with water and oils.
The saponification process, which involves mixing oil and sodium hydroxide, starts with melting the coconut oil in a microwave or pan. Carefully measure the lye and water separately, and then slowly add the lye to the water, stirring carefully with a spoon to avoid direct contact.
To create the soap mixture, combine the melted coconut oil and olive oil in a bowl, then slowly pour in the water and lye mixture, stirring until it's evenly mixed. Use an immersion blender to blend the mixture for about 4-5 minutes, or until it's opaque and starting to thicken.
Here are the basic steps to follow:
- Melt the coconut oil
- Measure and mix the lye and water
- Combine the oil and lye mixtures
- Blend the mixture with an immersion blender
- Add essential oils (if using)
- Pour the mixture into soap moulds
After 24 hours, remove the soap from the moulds and cut it into bars. Leave the bars to cure for about 4 weeks, during which time you can test their readiness by sticking your tongue on them – if they're not ready, they'll still have a strong lye taste!
Method
To make soap, you'll need to create a safe and clean workspace. Make sure it's well-ventilated and that there are no children nearby, as lye is caustic until mixed with water and oils.
You'll need to have all your ingredients and materials ready before you begin, so you can mix everything quickly and easily. This includes having a digital scale, a stick blender, a wooden or metal spoon, a spatula, soap moulds, gloves, and sunglasses or eyewear.
Start by melting your coconut oil, which you can do in the microwave or in a pan. Carefully measure the lye and water separately, and then pour the water into a bowl or large glass jar.
With gloves and eye protection, slowly add the lye to the water, never adding the water to the lye. Stir carefully with a spoon, making sure not to let the liquid come in contact with your body directly. This will create a cloudy white mixture that gets really hot, so be patient and let it set for about 10 minutes to cool.
For another approach, see: Water Discount in Soap
Once the mixture has cooled, you can slowly pour it into a bowl with the melted coconut oil and olive oil. Stir well, then quickly rinse the container used for the water and lye mixture out in the sink with white vinegar to neutralize any remaining lye.
Use a metal or wooden spoon to stir the lye/water mixture into the oil mixture, then use an immersion blender to blend for about 4-5 minutes or until the mixture is opaque and starting to thicken. If you're using essential oils for scent, add them now.
Quickly and carefully spoon the soap mixture into moulds, which can be any container lined with parchment paper. Cover the moulds with parchment paper and set them in a cool, dry place, away from kids and pets.
After 24 hours, remove the soap from the moulds using gloves and cut it into bars. Leave the bars to cure for about 4 weeks, testing if they're done by sticking your tongue on them – it will zing you like a battery if they aren't ready yet!
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Step 2: 5 Min
To calculate the right amount of soap base, fill the mold with water and dump it into a measuring cup. This is the amount you need to melt to fill that mold.
Cut the soap base into small cubes or chunks with a sharp chef's knife. Add pieces to a microwavable glass measuring cup until they reach twice the final amount you need.
You'll want to fill the measuring cup to the line that's twice as much as the final amount you need. For example, if you need 4 oz of melted soap base, fill the measuring cup to the 8oz line.
This is to compensate for all the spaces and gaps between the pieces. It's a good idea to do this to ensure your soap turns out right.
See what others are reading: Making Soap with Soap Base
Saponification
Saponification is the chemical reaction that turns oil into soap, and it's a crucial step in the soap making process. This process involves mixing oil with sodium hydroxide (NaOH), a strong alkali with a pH of 14.
The high pH of the initial blend is a result of the hydroxide's strong alkalinity. As the chemical reaction progresses, the pH falls, and soap and glycerine form. The final bar soap will have a pH of approximately 10.
The saponification value (SAP Value) describes how much potassium hydroxide (KOH) is needed to convert one gram of oil into soap. The SAP Value varies depending on the composition of each oil, with coconut oil requiring 191mg of KOH per gram and castor oil requiring 128mg per gram.
To check if saponification is complete, you can look for the gel phase to reach the edge of the soap mould. This is a clear indication that the process is finished.
Here's a quick rundown of the saponification process:
Note that KOH is used to make liquid soap, while NaOH is used to make soap bars.
Botanicals and Additives
Calendula, nettles, bog myrtle, and horsetail are just a few of the common herbs used in soap making, as mentioned in the course description.
These herbs can add unique properties and benefits to your soap, such as calendula's anti-inflammatory properties or horsetail's ability to improve skin elasticity.
Some other ingredients you might consider adding to your soap include lavender, yarrow, and honey, all of which are also mentioned in the course description.
These ingredients can enhance the lather, moisturizing properties, and overall scent of your soap.
Here's a list of some of the herbs and materials covered in the course:
- Calendula
- Nettles
- Bog myrtle
- Horsetail
- Lavender
- Yarrow
- Honey
Join Botanical
If you're interested in learning about botanical soap making, I highly recommend checking out the 8-week course on Botanical Soap Making. This comprehensive course covers the basics of soap making and herbal processing techniques.
The course takes a deep dive into common herbs, oils, and materials used for soap making, including calendula, nettles, bog myrtle, horsetail, lavender, yarrow, and honey. These are all ingredients you can easily incorporate into your soap making.
You'll also learn how to get a license for selling soap and guidelines on packaging and labelling to meet UK guidelines. This is a crucial step if you plan on selling your homemade soaps.
The course is hosted on Mighty Networks, a comprehensive platform that allows for online courses, live sessions, and community engagement. Once you purchase the course, you'll receive an email with the details to join the network or add the course to your profile.
The course is available to work through at any time, so you can pace yourself and learn at your own convenience.
Benefits
Using botanicals and additives in soap can have a significant impact on its benefits. Lye soap, for instance, is gentle and moisturizing, making it ideal for people with sensitive skin.
The anti-fungal and antibacterial properties of lye soap also make it a good choice for people with skin conditions like acne.
Natural
Natural soap is a cosmetic made from just two ingredients: oil and hydroxide, which undergo a chemical process called saponification.
The specific oils used in soap formulations give it unique qualities, such as coconut oil making soap with a good lather.
Olive oil soap is emollient, or moisturizing, but doesn't lather well, due to the chemical properties of olive oil.
You can make soap from different oils using the same recipe, which is a unique feature of the Robb Recipe.
This recipe allows for substitutions, meaning you can experiment with different oils without having to follow traditional recipes exactly.
Optional ingredients like bee products and fragrance can be added to create unique soap varieties.
Wheat germ oil, apricot kernel oil, and palm oil are just a few examples of oils that can be used in soap making with the Robb Recipe.
These oils have distinct properties that will affect the final product, so it's essential to understand their characteristics before getting started.
Related reading: Recipe for Liquid Soap Making
Calculations and Formulas
To calculate the amount of water needed for your lye solution, simply multiply the lye concentration by 0.4. For example, if you're using a 20% lye concentration, you would need 8 ounces of water.
The saponification value (SAP Value) describes how much potassium hydroxide (KOH) is needed to convert one gram of oil into soap. The composition of each oil determines how much hydroxide is required to change that oil into soap.
To determine the amount of NaOH required, multiply the grams of oil in the recipe by its NaOH Factor. For example, to convert 100g of castor oil to soap, you would need 12.9g of sodium hydroxide.
The NaOH Factor for each oil describes how many grams of NaOH is required to convert one gram of oil to soap. Here's a list of NaOH Factors for various oils:
To calculate the amount of oil needed for super-fatting, simply subtract the lye concentration from 100. For example, if you're using a 20% lye concentration, you would need 80 ounces of oil for super-fatting.
Lye and Solution
Lye solution strengths can vary depending on the type of lye you use and the recipe you follow. A 30% lye concentration is typically used for making solid soaps, while a 10% lye concentration is used for making liquid soaps.
To calculate the amount of water needed for your lye solution, multiply the lye concentration by 0.4. For example, if you're using a 20% lye concentration, you would need 8 ounces of water.
A 5% lye concentration requires only 2 ounces of water, making it a good choice for making cream soaps.
Difference Between Sodium Hydroxide and Potassium Hydroxide
Sodium hydroxide is more commonly used in soap-making because it's less expensive than potassium hydroxide.
If you're new to soap-making, it's recommended to use sodium hydroxide. This is because it's less caustic than potassium hydroxide, making it a safer choice for beginners.
Recipes often rely on lye solution strengths ranging from 25% to 28%. This means lye can make up 25 to 28 percent of the solution.
A 5% Lye Solution contains 25% lye with 75% water, which is a common concentration used in soap-making.
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Prepare the Solution
To prepare the lye solution, you'll need to carefully weigh the lye. The amount of lye you'll need depends on the concentration you're using, but for a 30% concentration, you'll typically only use it for making solid soaps.
You'll also need to add water to the lye, and the amount of water needed depends on the lye concentration. A 30% lye concentration requires 12 ounces of water, a 10% concentration requires 4 ounces, and a 5% concentration requires 2 ounces.
Before mixing the lye and water, put on gloves and goggles to protect yourself from the fumes. Carefully add the lye to the water and stir until the crystals are in suspension, which will warm up the solution as the lye dissolves.
The solution will be ready once the crystals are in suspension, and you can then use it to make your soap.
For another approach, see: Lye Solution for Soap Making
Sodium Hydroxide Factor
The Sodium Hydroxide Factor is a crucial aspect of soap-making, and it's essential to understand how it works.
It's a measure of how much sodium hydroxide (NaOH) is required to convert one gram of oil to soap. The NaOH Factor ranges from 0.129g of NaOH per gram oil for castor oil and rice bran oil to 0.192g of NaOH per gram oil for coconut oil.
Intriguing read: Sodium Hydroxide Soap Making
To calculate the amount of NaOH needed, you simply multiply the grams of oil in your recipe by its NaOH Factor. For example, if you're using 100g of castor oil, you'd need 12.9g of NaOH to convert it to soap and glycerin.
Using a higher NaOH Factor, like 0.192g for coconut oil, means more NaOH is required to saponify the oil. In fact, it takes 19.2g of NaOH to convert 100g of coconut oil to soap.
It's essential to get the NaOH Factor right, as using too much NaOH can cause burns. This is why it's crucial to understand the NaOH Factor for each oil you're using in your soap recipe.
The NaOH Factor is a key factor in determining the amount of sodium hydroxide needed for soap-making, and it's essential to get it right to produce high-quality soap.
Consider reading: Lye Soap Recipe with Lard
Recipes and Examples
To create your own soap recipe, you'll need to choose a lye calculator and enter the desired information. You can find many lye calculators online, so be sure to select one that meets your specific needs.
A good starting point is to choose a lye concentration, water discount, and lye solution strength. For example, you might select a lye concentration of 20%, a water discount of 10%, and a lye solution strength of 28%.
To calculate the amount of lye needed, multiply the lye concentration by the total weight of your oils. In one example, 64 ounces of oil required 12.8 ounces of lye.
When calculating the water needed for your lye solution, multiply the lye concentration by 0.4. For a 20% lye concentration, you would need 3.2 ounces of water.
Super-fatting your soap is also an important consideration. To do this, subtract the lye concentration from 100% and multiply the result by the total weight of your oils. In one example, 51.2 ounces of oil were needed for super-fatting.
Here's a quick reference guide to help you get started:
Remember to always use caution when working with lye, and make sure to follow proper safety protocols to avoid injury.
Safety and Precautions
Wear gloves and eye protection when working with lye to avoid burns and eye damage.
Lye is a caustic substance that can cause serious harm if not handled properly.
Work in a well-ventilated area to prevent inhaling lye fumes.
If you accidentally get lye on your skin, rinse the area immediately with cold water.
If you get lye in your eyes, flush them with cold water for 15 minutes and seek medical attention right away.
Is Necessary?
Lye is necessary for soap, as it reacts with oils to create soap. This is a fundamental aspect of soap-making.
The soap calculator is a helpful tool that can guide you in creating soap recipes tailored to your specific needs. It can even help you determine the exact amount of lye, water, and oil required for your recipe.
Lye is a crucial ingredient in soap-making, and handling it requires caution. The soap calculator can help you input specific parameters, such as lye concentration and super-fatting level, to ensure your recipe is safe and effective.
Caution on Calculators

Using soap calculators can be misleading, as they don't always provide 100% accurate information. I've found that relying solely on these calculators can lead to incorrect assumptions about a soap's properties.
For instance, a 100% bar of olive oil soap is not completely non-cleansing, as soapcalc.net might suggest. In reality, it's mildly cleansing, which can be a pleasant surprise for new soapmakers.
Soap calculators also don't take into account the superfat when predicting a soap's feel. This can lead to inaccurate conclusions, such as a high coconut oil soap being drying when, in fact, the high superfat will balance it out.
A notable exception to this is castille soap, made with high olive oil content, which is surprisingly hard, not soft, as the calculator might indicate.
To get accurate results, it's essential to make the soap and evaluate its properties firsthand. This way, you can modify the recipe as needed, rather than relying solely on calculator predictions.
Here are some common issues with soap calculators:
- Incorrect cleansing properties (e.g., 100% olive oil soap is mildly cleansing)
- Failure to account for superfat (e.g., high coconut oil soap with high superfat won't be drying)
- Inaccurate predictions about soap hardness (e.g., castille soap is rock hard, not soft)
Work Safety

Wear gloves and eye protection when working with lye to prevent burns and eye damage.
Be sure to work in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling fumes.
If you accidentally get lye on your skin, rinse the area immediately with cold water.
If you get lye in your eyes, flush them with cold water for 15 minutes and seek medical attention immediately.
Taking these precautions can make working with lye a much safer experience.
Varieties and Options
Creating multiple soap varieties is possible with The Robb Recipe. This recipe allows for flexibility and experimentation with different ingredients and scents.
You can make distinct soaps with the same recipe by changing the ingredients or adding different essential oils. For example, Lavender Lime Honey Soap and Sweet Orange Protein Bar are two variations that follow The Robb Recipe but have unique characteristics.
These variations show that The Robb Recipe is a versatile formula that can be adapted to create a range of soap varieties.
Worth a look: Ingredients in Dove Bar Soap
Suitable for Face?

Lye soap can be used on the face, but it's essential to choose a gentle recipe with a low lye concentration.
Using a gentle recipe will help minimize the risk of irritation or dryness, making it suitable for even the most sensitive skin.
You may also want to consider adding additional oils or butter to your recipe to help offset the drying effects of lye, which can be especially beneficial for those with dry or combination skin.
A well-balanced recipe with a low lye concentration can make all the difference in how your skin responds to lye soap, so be sure to pay attention to this when selecting a recipe.
Varieties
Creating multiple soap varieties is possible with The Robb Recipe. This flexibility allows you to experiment with different scents and ingredients.
Two variations of soap made with The Robb Recipe are provided in the article. They are distinctly different, despite following the same recipe.
The recipe cards for Lavender Lime Honey Soap and Sweet Orange Protein Bar are on page 5.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the 3 main ingredients in soap making?
To make soap, you need three essential ingredients: oil, water, and lye, which react together to create the soap base. Additional ingredients are often added to enhance the soap's benefits, color, and scent.
What is the ratio for soap making for beginners?
For beginners, a safe and effective soap making ratio is 1.5 to 2 times the weight of lye in water. This middle range provides a good balance for a smooth and successful soap making process.
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