How to Make Composters from Scratch: A Comprehensive Guide

Making a composter from scratch is a fun and rewarding DIY project that can help you reduce your waste and create nutrient-rich soil for your garden. You can start by gathering materials such as an old pallet, wire mesh, and a drill.

First, you'll want to collect a mix of "green" materials like food scraps and grass clippings, and "brown" materials like leaves and twigs. The ideal mix is 2/3 brown materials and 1/3 green materials, as stated in "Choosing the Right Materials for Your Composter".

Next, create a bin for your composter using the pallet and wire mesh. Drill holes in the bottom and sides of the pallet for airflow and drainage, just like in "Building the Composter Bin".

A compost bin should be located close enough to your garden or house for easy access and use, but not so close to home that potential odors or flies would be an issue.

It's best to leave the bottom of the compost bin open to the native soil below for drainage, beneficial microbe exchange, natural earthworm activity, and easier turning or scooping out of the compost.

Choose a location with fairly level ground to ensure the compost bin is stable and easy to work with.

Before you start building your compost bin, there are a few key considerations to keep in mind. These will ensure that your project is successful and that you get the most out of your composting efforts.

First and foremost, choose pallets that have not been chemically treated. This means looking for pallets that have been heat-treated (marked with "HT") or made from new virgin wood.

Pallets come in different sizes, and while mismatched sizes can work, it's preferable to have pallets of the same size. This will make assembly easier and result in a neater finished product.

For strength and durability, opt for hardwood pallets, such as oak or cedar. These types of wood are rot-resistant and can withstand the elements.

If you're using pallets, make sure to find a way to make the top movable, as each section will eventually house finished compost. This will make it easier to access the compost without having to lift heavy loads.

Consider the size of your compost bin. A 4x4x4 foot space is ideal for optimal microbial activity and decomposition. If space allows, consider providing an area for several piles, separated by walls or "bays", to facilitate rotation and turning of the compost.

Here are some key factors to consider when choosing pallets:

When choosing a location for your compost bin, consider how close it is to your garden or house. A compost bin should be located near your garden or house for easy access and use, but not so close that potential odors or flies become a problem.

For more insights, see: Garden Composters

The ground should be fairly level, as a compost bin is quite large and heavy. We built our compost bin in place and used a landscaping rake to smooth out the ground surface first.

Leaving the bottom of the compost bin open to the native soil below is a good idea. This allows for drainage, beneficial microbe exchange, natural earthworm activity, and makes it easier to turn or scoop out the compost without getting snagged up on something.

Explore further: In Ground Compost Pile

When building a compost bin, it's essential to choose a location that's close to your garden or house for easy access, but not so close that potential odors or flies become a problem. A properly maintained compost pile shouldn't stink, but it's better to be safe than sorry.

The compost bin should be located on fairly level ground to make it easier to turn or scoop out the compost without getting snagged up on something on the bottom. This also allows for natural earthworm activity and beneficial microbe exchange.

You'll want to leave the bottom of the compost bin open to the native soil below to promote drainage and beneficial microbe exchange. This also makes it easier to turn or scoop out the compost.

To build a yard-waste-only compost bin, you'll need to cut out a large rectangle of chicken wire, which will form the body of your compost bin. This bin will be a cylinder shape and can only be used outdoors over soil.

Cutting out the chicken wire rectangle can be a bit tricky, but it's essential to get the right size for your bin. Make sure to flatten the wire onto the ground to make it easier to work with.

You'll need four stakes out of scrap wood to maintain the shape of your wire bin. These stakes should be longer than the height of your chicken wire to ensure they stay in place.

Here's a quick rundown of the steps to build your yard-waste-only compost bin:

Remember to choose a spot for your bin that won't get in your way later, and make sure the stakes are close enough to the wire that they don't pull it out of shape.

To make a composter, you'll need a few basic materials. A large trash can with a lid that locks on is a good starting point.

You'll also need a simple platform, such as a wooden plant stand on wheels, to elevate your composter. Screws are necessary to attach this platform to the trash can.

A drill with a large drill bit is also required to secure the platform in place.

For your interest: Large Tumbler Compost Bin

You can build a compost bin with a large trash can and a simple platform, like a wooden plant stand on wheels. Attach the platform to the trash can using screws.

A drill with a large drill bit is also necessary for this project. You'll need to drill screw holes into the trash can and the platform.

Hardware cloth is a great material to line the walls of your compost bin, providing adequate airflow and keeping vermin out. You'll need about 25 to 30 feet of 4-foot wide 1/2″ hardware cloth for a bin of this size.

Alternatively, you could use chicken wire, but be aware that it can degrade over time and doesn't provide the same level of support as hardware cloth.

To make a 3-section compost bin using free shipping pallets, you'll need the right materials and supplies. You'll need seven pallets, all-weather deck screws (3-inch length is ideal), and a drill with the appropriate bit.

For the pallets, consider grabbing an extra one to use for spare parts. This will come in handy for filling gaps between slats and keeping your compost in place. The extra pallet will also provide you with the materials needed to close gaps in your finished bins.

You'll also want to add a long treated 2×4 across the backside and secure it to the back panels for extra stability. This will provide a simple and inexpensive option to reinforce the entire system.

Here are the specific materials and supplies you'll need:

Our compost bin design features three 4x4x4 bays, taking up a total footprint of about 12×4 feet. This design allows for a compact and efficient composting space.

To build the compost bin outer walls, start by laying two 4×4 corner pieces on a flat surface, spaced the width of the wall. Then, lay the three horizontal 2×6 boards across the 4x4s – one at the top, one at the bottom, and one spaced halfway in between.

Before securing the 2×6 boards with screws, check that everything is square using a carpenter square or measuring tape. This ensures the walls are even and secure.

Here's a list of hardware you'll need to build the compost bin:

When building your compost bin, it's essential to have the right hardware to ensure it's sturdy and secure. You'll need longer screws for connecting the 2x6s to the 4×4 corners, specifically 2 ½ to 3-inch outdoor wood screws or decking screws.

To attach the hardware cloth to the 2×6 walls, you'll use shorter screws with a wide head, such as 1-inch or 1-1/4″ cabinet screws.

Fence rail brackets are crucial for connecting the 2x6s to the 2x4s on the interior walls of the compost bin. You'll need 12 total brackets for this purpose.

For attaching these brackets, you can use 1-inch or 1/4″ inch screws. You can either use the same cabinet screws as above or shorter wood/deck screws.

If you want to add extra stability to your compost bin, you can consider using 4 flat corner braces, one for each wall. Alternatively, you can install 4-foot steel tube gates, one for the front of each bay, which come with J-bolt hinges.

Here's a summary of the hardware you'll need:

Our 3-bay compost bin design is a great option for those who want to maximize their composting space.

The design features three 4x4x4 bays, which take up a total footprint of about 12×4 feet.

This layout allows for efficient use of space and can be built to fit in most backyards.

The compost bin takes advantage of removable face boards that can be added via tracks or slots along the frontside of each bay.

These face boards enable you to pile up the compost nice and high, rather than letting it spill out the otherwise open front side.

This design is optimal for speedy decomposition and hot composting!

Building the outer walls of your compost bin is a crucial step, and it's surprisingly straightforward. You'll need to start by building one end or outer wall, which for our design is the 51.5" section.

To begin, lay two 4×4 corner pieces on a flat surface, spaced the width of the wall apart. Then, lay the three horizontal 2×6 boards across the 4x4s – one at the top, one at the bottom, and one spaced halfway in between. Keep the ends of the 2×6 flush with the sides of the 4×4.

Add 2 long screws to the ends of each 2×6, securing them to the 4×4 below. This will provide a solid foundation for the rest of the bin. Before securing with screws, double-check that everything is square using a carpenter square or measuring tape.

Discover more: Building Compost Bins

At this point, your new DIY compost bin is basically complete and ready to use! However, adding a few finishing touches can make a big difference.

We chose to add 8” flat corner braces to the top of each wall for added stability. This will help keep the structure secure, especially if you have donkeys like we do!

Installing lightweight 4-foot Behlen Country steel tube gates on the front of each bay is another great idea. We secured them closed to the 4x4s with a simple eye hook and carabiner type latch.

If you've never hung gates on J-bolts before, I highly recommend watching a tutorial. We installed the J-bolts straight out of the front of the 4×4, not on the sides, and kept both J-bolts facing UP intentionally.

For added vermin and pest protection, you could also build and attach a hinged lid on top of each bay, such as with wood and hardware cloth.

Start by making holes in your trash can. Drill 20 to 25 holes along the lid, bottom, and sides of your trash can.

Next, attach a platform to the bottom of the bin using your drill. This platform allows for drainage from the compost, which also saves the grass underneath.

Don't forget to leave the holes on the bottom uncovered. Alternatively, you can drill a few more holes in the bottom to ensure good airflow.

By following these steps, you'll be on your way to creating a functional composter.

Composting can be a bit of a mystery, but with the right materials, you can create a thriving compost pile. Organic matter will eventually decompose if you give it enough time, so don't be afraid to add grass, garden clippings, leftover fruits and vegetables, and certain animal manure to your compost bin.

To speed up the process, shred your materials up before adding them to the bin. This will enlarge the surface area, allowing small animals and bacteria to process the materials more efficiently.

A mix of two parts green to one part brown is the ideal compost ratio. Green materials, which contain essential sources of nitrogen, include grasses, garden clippings, and green leaves. Brown materials, which contain carbon-rich materials, include drier materials such as hay, twigs, and shredded cardboard.

To keep your compost pile hot and wet, make sure to add enough moisture and stir it regularly. A pitchfork is recommended for mixing the compost, and you should aim to stir it every other day.

If you live in an area with animals that might be attracted to your compost, consider anchoring the cover down with a heavy object. A couple of heavy bricks near the center of your compost cover will effectively keep raccoons and opossums from throwing off the cover and looting your compost.