DIY Ground Source Heating for a Warmer and Greener Home

Ground source heating is a highly efficient and renewable way to warm your home, and the best part is that you can do it yourself with the right knowledge and materials. This system works by harnessing the natural heat from the earth to provide warmth for your home.

The earth's temperature remains relatively constant at around 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit, even in the coldest winter months, making it an ideal source of heat. By tapping into this natural resource, you can reduce your reliance on fossil fuels and lower your energy bills.

A typical ground source heating system consists of a network of pipes buried underground, which absorb heat from the earth and transfer it to a heat pump. The heat pump then circulates the warm water or air throughout your home.

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Installing geothermal ductwork is crucial for a successful DIY ground source heating project. A poorly designed duct system can lead to a system that fails to perform up to its potential.

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You'll need to take your time and do the calculations accurately to design a proper duct system. The ducts must be large enough to handle the required CFM, or the system will be very noisy and drafty.

The return air portion of the system is just as important as the delivery side, and it's often the most intimidating part of the installation process for DIYers.

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For our DIY geothermal system, we chose a 5-ton McQuay heatpump, which we purchased online for $4566 shipped.

We opted for the McQuay VFW1060 model, which includes an ECM blower, desuperheater option, and a 20KW auxiliary heat strip.

The McQuay unit was perfect for our cabin, which we'd use mostly on weekends, but if I were putting one of these systems in my primary home, I'd pay extra for a 2-stage efficiency.

The McQuay heatpump summary, available as a PDF, provides detailed performance data for the unit.

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We installed a closed loop system, which involves circulating a fluid through a network of pipes buried underground to harness geothermal energy.

The system requires a suitable ground loop configuration, which depends on factors like soil type, climate, and available space.

For our setup, we chose a configuration that worked well with the McQuay heatpump's specifications.

The installation process involves digging trenches for the pipes, burying them, and connecting them to the heatpump and other system components.

We took care to ensure proper installation and connection of the system components to maximize efficiency and performance.

The McQuay heatpump's ECM blower and desuperheater option were key features that helped us achieve a reliable and efficient system.

A poorly designed duct system can ruin the whole project, failing to allow your heat pump to perform up to its potential.

You can choose to design your own duct system, but take your time and do the calculations as accurately as you can. If the ducts are too small for the CFM required, the system will be very noisy, and the air will be coming out of the registers at a high rate causing drafts.

The return air portion of the system is just as important as the delivery side. Designing the duct system requires careful attention to detail.

Installing a geothermal circulating system can be intimidating, even for experienced DIYers. It's a crucial part of the geothermal installation process.

We chose the QT Flow Center with two pumps to circulate the fluid in our DIY geothermal system. It's a key component that ensures the system operates efficiently.

The QT Flow Center costs around $699 and can be purchased from geo-hydro supply.

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Ground source heating systems consist of a heat pump, pipes, and a control unit, all of which can be sourced from hardware stores or online retailers.

The heat pump is the heart of the system, converting low-grade heat from the ground into usable energy.

A typical ground source heating system requires 100-200 meters of pipes, which can be buried horizontally or vertically, depending on the site conditions.

Pipes are made of durable materials like polybutylene or cross-linked polyethylene, which can withstand freezing temperatures and last for up to 50 years.

A control unit regulates the system's performance, ensuring optimal temperature and efficiency.

The control unit can be programmed to run the system during off-peak hours, taking advantage of lower electricity rates.

In some cases, a buffer tank may be necessary to store excess heat generated by the system.

A buffer tank can be a large water tank or a specialized tank designed specifically for ground source heating systems.

The tank size depends on the system's capacity and the desired temperature range.

A typical buffer tank can hold 1,000-5,000 liters of water.

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Geothermal heating and cooling has become increasingly popular in the U.S. due to its high efficiency and recent government tax credits.

A geothermal heat pump can provide heating and air conditioning in a home, even in areas without high temperature geothermal resources. These systems use a heat pump to force or transfer heat from the ground to your home.

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The system circulates a water/antifreeze mix through pipes buried in the ground, absorbing heat from the ground and bringing its temperature up to around 45F.

In colder climates, a ground-source heat pump is much more effective than an air-source heat pump since drawing heat from bitter cold air requires more energy.

Geothermal heating and cooling is gaining popularity in the US due to its high efficiency and recent government tax credits.

It can provide heating and air conditioning in a home, even in areas without high temperature geothermal resources.

A ground-source heat pump uses shallow ground as a source of heat, typically at a consistent 50-55F.

This is much more effective than an air-source heat pump in colder climates, as drawing heat from bitter cold air requires more energy.

Closed loop geothermal heat pumps circulate a water/antifreeze mix through pipes buried in the ground.

They absorb heat from the ground, bringing its temperature up to around 45F, and then return to the heat pump in the house.

The rechilled fluid is sent back through the ground loop, continuing the cycle.

The heat extracted from the fluid is used to warm the house.

Using the ground heating loop in the energy equation means that more heat is generated than if electricity alone had been used directly for heating.

A geothermal heat pump can generate 3.5 to 5 times the heat per kilowatt of electricity than a pure electric heater.

The same system can be used for very efficient air conditioning in the summer months by switching the direction of the refrigeration cycle.

The heat is exhausted into the same relatively cool soil, leading to higher efficiency and lower energy use.

Geothermal heating and cooling has attracted attention from the Green community, with the US EPA reporting that geo-exchange systems save homeowners 30-70% in heating costs and 20-50% in cooling costs compared to conventional systems.

Angled well drilling is a technique used to access groundwater at a deeper level, allowing for the installation of a geothermal loop. This method involves drilling wells at an angle to the horizon.

In the case of a DIY geothermal heat pump, angled well drilling can be done with the help of professionals, as seen in the example where nice people from Green Energy assisted with drilling the wells.

Drilling multiple wells from one point is a key benefit of angled well drilling, making it a more efficient process.

Geothermal heating can be a game-changer for fuel costs.

By using a geothermal heatpump, you can save on fuel costs compared to other options like propane or electric element heaters.

For example, the calculator mentioned in the article shows that geothermal heating can be the most efficient choice.

Local utility rates can vary, but geothermal heating often comes out on top.

We designed and installed a DIY geothermal system in our cabin and saw the benefits firsthand.

Our system allowed us to compare geothermal heating to propane and electric element heaters, and geothermal was clearly the winner.

You can use a spreadsheet like the one mentioned in the article to see how geothermal stacks up against other fuel options in your area.

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Financial Incentives can be a significant draw for those considering DIY ground source heating. The UK government's Renewable Heat Incentive (RHI) scheme offers payments of up to £12,000 over seven years for eligible installations.

You can claim up to £3,000 in the first year, with annual payments of £1,200 for the next six years. This can significantly offset the upfront costs of installation, which can range from £5,000 to £15,000.

The RHI scheme is designed to encourage the use of renewable heat sources, and it's available to homeowners and businesses. To qualify, your system must meet certain criteria, such as using a ground source heat pump.

The payments are tax-free and are paid quarterly, making it easier to budget for the costs of running your system. This can help make the long-term savings of ground source heating more accessible.

Digging a trench for your ground source heating pipe is a task that's within reach for a homeowner, but it does require some planning. A slinky loop is a popular means of pipe installation as it can minimize the trench lengths while still providing maximum linear footage of piping.

The depth of the trench will vary depending on the frost line, which is typically between 4-6 feet on average. Drilling holes and running the loop vertically is another installation method, but you may need to hire a professional for this task.

Drilling vertical shafts for geothermal pipe can be similar to drilling a hundred-and-fifty-foot well, and you'll likely need multiple shafts to bury all necessary piping. Measuring exactly what you'll need is key to avoid unexpected costs.

Digging a horizontal trench is something a homeowner can do using their own excavator or renting one. The trench needs to be deep enough and the correct length to work properly.

A slinky loop is a very popular means of pipe installation as it can minimize the trench lengths while still providing maximum linear footage of piping.

The depth of the trench will vary depending on the frost line and can be anywhere from 4-6 feet on average.

Drilling holes and running the loop vertically is the installation where you most likely can’t rent a drill and will need to have someone do it for you.

Drilling vertical shafts for geothermal pipe is similar to drilling a hundred-and-fifty-foot well.

As you typically need many shafts to bury all necessary piping, the cost of a vertical dig can become higher than most people expect at the outset, so measuring exactly what you’ll need is key.

Installing ductwork is a crucial step in geothermal heating and cooling system installation. A poorly designed duct system can ruin the whole project.

Designing your own duct system requires careful calculations to ensure the ducts are the right size for the required CFM. If the ducts are too small, the system will be very noisy and air will be coming out of the registers at a high rate causing drafts.

The return air portion of the system is just as important as the delivery side, and a DIYer may find this part of geothermal installation intimidating.

You can make your own DIY geothermal plumbing diagram, like the one shown in the example, to help you plan and install your system. This diagram illustrates the basic plumbing for a DIY geothermal system, including the domestic hot water setup.

To mix antifreeze with water, you'll need to fill the system with a 10% mixture of antifreeze to water, which has a freezing point of approximately 23 degrees F. This is based on an inside diameter of 0.86 inches for the 3600 ft of HDPE tubing.

For domestic hot water, you can use a cheap electric hot water heater as a reservoir, which can be fed by the desuperheater in your geothermal heat pump. The warm water from this tank can then be fed to on-demand water heaters to bring the water up to full temperature.

Here are some key considerations for your DIY geothermal plumbing system:

For a DIY geothermal system, you'll need to consider the plumbing setup carefully. A DIY geothermal manifold can be made out of 1 1/4" PVC fittings, with individual control valves on each supply line to balance coolant flow.

Originally, the author tried using 1"x1" PEX fittings, but they wouldn't seal up once the fluid started circulating. This led to leaks and the need to switch to galvanized steel fittings with longer barbs.

Using double hose clamps on each line solved the leaks, making the system more reliable. The author's experience highlights the importance of choosing the right fittings for your geothermal system.

A basic plumbing diagram for a DIY geothermal system is available as a PDF download. The diagram illustrates the domestic hot water setup, which is crucial for a comfortable living space.

The author mixed 10 gallons of antifreeze (Ethylene Glycol) with water to fill the system, achieving a 10% mixture with a freezing point of approximately 23 degrees F. This is a key consideration for any geothermal system.

A cheap electric hot water heater was repurposed as a reservoir for domestic hot water generated by the desuperheater in the geothermal heat pump. The warm water from this tank is then fed to the inputs of on-demand water heaters.

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Water to Air Geothermal Systems can be a viable option for heating and cooling a greenhouse, especially in regions with mild winters and hot summers like Southeast Georgia.

The idea is to bury plastic piping underground at a depth of 8 feet and circulate water or a glycol mixture through it to take advantage of the relatively constant ground temperature of around 50°F.

Randy Urben plans to use a 3/4" plastic pipe, buried at 8 feet and 6 feet deep, to circulate water through an auto radiator with a fan behind it.

He's aiming to achieve a heating and cooling capacity of 12,000 BTU, with a minimum air temperature of 20°F and a maximum of 100°F.

The water temperature is expected to remain relatively constant between 50°F to 60°F, making it suitable for solar water heating without a heat pump.

Here are some key design conditions for Randy's project: