Building a Mid Mod Side Table from Scratch

Building a mid mod side table from scratch requires some basic woodworking skills and knowledge of mid-century modern design principles. One of the key features of mid mod side tables is the use of tapered legs, which can be created using a combination of a table saw and a router.

To start, you'll need to gather your materials, which may include a 3/4 inch thick piece of plywood or MDF for the top, some 1x2 lumber for the legs, and a few screws and nails. A mid mod side table typically has a rectangular top with a small footprint, so you'll want to choose a piece of wood that's large enough to accommodate your needs but not so big that it overwhelms the space.

Mid-century modern design often incorporates organic and geometric shapes, so consider adding some decorative trim or molding to your side table to give it a unique touch. For example, you could use a thin strip of wood to create a decorative edge around the top of your table.

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Mid-century modern side tables are often characterized by their simple, clean lines and minimal ornamentation.

The use of solid woods, such as oak and walnut, was popular in mid-century modern side table design.

A common height for mid-century modern side tables is between 18 and 22 inches, allowing for easy placement next to a sofa or armchair.

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As you start building your project, it's essential to have a clear understanding of the materials you'll need. The cut list will serve as your guide, outlining each piece of wood required for the job.

You'll need 2 Side Boards, each measuring 1/2"x16"x17".

The shelves will require some extra attention, with 2 Shelves needed, measuring 1/2"x16"x19" each.

The Top piece is relatively straightforward, measuring 1/2"x16"x20".

A thin piece of wood, the Backing, is 1/4"x17.5"x20".

The Drawer Front is a bit more specific, measuring 1/2"x6-7/8"x18-7/8".

You'll also need a Drawer Back, which is 1/2"x5"x18".

The Drawer Sides require some precision, measuring 1/2"x5"x14" each.

Finally, the Drawer Base is 1/2"x14"x17".

Here's a summary of the cut list:

The first step in bringing your design to life is milling the lumber. I hand select all of my lumber to find boards that match in color and grain patterns as much as possible.

To achieve a clean and continuous edge, it's essential to minimize cutting and trimming. In this case, I wanted to find two boards that were greater than 9" wide to reduce the number of boards and glue-ups.

A 12" jointer is a game-changer for getting wider boards. It's a tool I invested in specifically for this purpose, and it's been a valuable addition to my workshop.

You learn to see what lies beneath the rough surface of the wood, but you never truly know until you begin to mill it. This is especially true when working with maple, which can have hidden imperfections.

Miter saws are an easy way to break down rough pieces into manageable sizes. In this project, I used a miter saw to break down my boards to the desired lengths.

The jointer is used to get the boards perfectly flat, while the planer is used to achieve the final thickness. This process ensures that all the components fit together seamlessly.

Glue-ups can be a delicate process, and it's essential to maintain the edges carefully to avoid mistakes. In this case, I glued up the individual parts before breaking them down into their final components.

Assembling the cases is a crucial step in building a piece of furniture. It requires precision and attention to detail to ensure a strong and sturdy finished product.

To start, I used a table saw to cut a 45-degree bevel on all the case pieces, which helps create a nice continuous grain wrapping. This adds visual appeal to the finished piece.

A dado stack in the table saw was used to cut a dado in the side pieces that would house the middle shelf. This provides additional support and stability to the shelf.

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A Festool Domino was used to cut tenons into the miters, which adds much more support than just gluing the miters themselves. This is especially important for miters, which are largely end grain-to-end grain glue joints.

It's essential to dry fit the case to check alignment and get the measurement needed for the shelves. This ensures that the shelves fit perfectly and the case is assembled correctly.

Once the shelves were built, I fit them into the cases and glued them in place. It's crucial to maintain the same grain orientation as the sides and the top to ensure the shelf grain expands and contracts in the same orientation as the rest of the case.

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A well-designed table can make or break the overall aesthetic of a room. A table's style, shape, and size can greatly impact the functionality and ambiance of a space.

The article highlights the importance of choosing the right table for your needs. For example, a dining table can seat up to 8 people, making it perfect for large families or gatherings.

A coffee table can be as small as 24 inches in diameter, making it ideal for cozy living rooms. Its compact size allows for easy movement and placement in tight spaces.

The article also mentions that a console table can be as tall as 60 inches, making it a great option for entryways or hallways. This height allows for ample storage and display space.

A kitchen island table can be as long as 96 inches, providing ample space for food preparation and cooking. Its island design allows for easy movement and flexibility in the kitchen.

The right table can also greatly impact the overall style of a room. For example, a glass top table can add a touch of elegance and sophistication to a room, while a wooden table can bring a cozy and rustic feel.

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With a little creativity and some basic supplies, you can give old furniture a new life. I recently transformed a $10 Craigslist find into a stylish mid century modern side table.

The process took about an hour, plus drying time, and required some basic tools like a utility knife, iron-on veneer edging, and painter's tape.

Start by removing the old, rounded plastic edging with a utility knife. This will make way for the new iron-on edging.

Applying the iron-on edging tape can be a bit tricky, so be sure to follow the package directions and use a scrap piece of wood to press it into place.

Painting the piece is the most time-consuming part of the process, requiring multiple coats of vintage decor paint and some patience. I applied 4 to 5 coats, sanding after each one.

Adding a touch of gold to the legs can make all the difference in giving your piece a mid century modern look. I applied 2 coats of liquid gilding, letting it dry for about 10 minutes between coats.

Finally, seal the paint with a coat of clear wax and buff it with a clean rag to bring out the finish.

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