A Comprehensive Guide to Installing a Central Vacuum System

A central vacuum system is a great investment for any homeowner. It provides superior cleaning power and convenience.

The first step in installing a central vacuum system is to determine the right size for your home. This is based on the square footage of your living space, typically 20-25 square feet per outlet.

You'll need to choose between a single-stage and two-stage motor. A two-stage motor is more powerful and suitable for larger homes.

The motor should be installed in a well-ventilated area, such as a basement or garage.

Installing a central vacuum system is a bit of a project, but don't worry, I've got you covered. The quickest installation method is actually quite straightforward.

You can use any number of universal hoses, which makes the installation process a lot easier. Plus, you have the option to include an electric carpet brush, which is a nice touch.

To get started, you'll need to choose your system wisely. This involves using a tubing cutter for cleaner cuts, and a 2-1/4” wood boring bit similar to a Forstner bit. If you don't have a right-angle drill, you can rent one to make the job easier.

Here are the tools you'll need to get the job done:

If you're feeling handy, a do-it-yourself installation can be a cost-effective and empowering way to get the job done.

To start, you'll need to choose your system, taking into account the specific requirements of your home and the type of installation you're doing.

Helpful hints for choosing your system include using a tubing cutter for cleaner cuts, and renting a right-angle drill if you don't have one.

Tools Required:

A 2-1/4” Forstner wood-boring bit is a crucial tool for this job, allowing you to make precise holes in your walls.

Metal coat hangers can also come in handy, providing a useful way to fish through tight spaces and retrieve tools or parts.

A right-angle drill can be a real game-changer, making it much easier to navigate tight spaces and get the job done efficiently.

Builder's packages can greatly simplify the installation process of a central vacuum system. They typically include a set of pre-designed components and configurations that cater to specific installation needs.

The location of the power unit is a crucial aspect of a central vacuum system, and builder's packages usually specify its optimal placement to ensure efficient system performance.

When choosing a builder's package, consider the tubing system design, as it will determine the layout of the system and the location of wall inlet valves.

Builder's packages often include typical installation examples, which can serve as a reference for installers and homeowners alike.

Here are some key components and considerations to keep in mind when selecting a builder's package:

By carefully evaluating these components and considerations, homeowners and installers can ensure a smooth and successful installation process.

A good central vacuum system is only as strong as its components and accessories. You can find hoses in 30-foot lengths, which is perfect for cleaning large areas.

To make cleaning easier, consider getting a duplicate set of power brushes and hoses for your second-story areas, so you don't have to drag the larger tools up and down the stairs. This will save you time and effort in the long run.

You can get brushes to handle nearly any task, from vacuuming floors to cleaning upholstery or giving your car a good vac-down.

The Hide-A-Hose is a convenient and space-saving solution for your home. It's a retractable hose that can be pulled out to any length needed, and then instantly retracted when vacuuming is complete.

You can cover most areas of your home with just two Hide-A-Hose Inlets, which is fewer inlets to install compared to a standard installation. The hose is typically 50 feet long, but you can also get it in 30, 40, 50, and 60-feet lengths.

For a typical two-story home, you might need to install three Hide-A-Hose Inlets. This can be a hybrid installation with a retractable hose on the first story and standard inlets on the second story.

Here are the key benefits of using Hide-A-Hose:

PVC piping is a crucial component of a central vacuum system. You'll need to run PVC piping throughout your home to allow the vacuum to pull dirt and debris into the central canister/power unit.

Wide sweeping turns are recommended for 90-degree bends to avoid clog points. Tight radius bends can easily become clog points, so it's best to use a layout with series of 45-degree bends.

You'll typically need to run high and/or low voltage wiring along with the piping. This depends on your system, but it's essential for powerheads.

Making good use of closets can help "hide" piping that goes to the floor. This can be especially helpful when bypassing hard-to-locate sill plates.

A good power brush and hose can last you forever, and they're a must-have for any central vac system. They simply connect to the inlet and turn on the system with a low voltage trigger.

You can find hoses in 30-foot lengths, which is perfect for cleaning larger areas. Remember, a 900 square foot house needs a hose of this length to cover everything.

For those with 2-story houses, it's recommended to get a duplicate set of power brushes and hoses to avoid dragging the larger tools up and down the stairs.

You can get brushes to handle any task, from vacuuming floors to cleaning upholstery or giving your car a good vac-down.

Two-Level Tubing is a convenient option for many homes. It allows you to vacuum the whole floor area from one single inlet valve.

The light, broken line in the diagram indicates an alternative installation type where the unit is mounted in the basement. This setup is ideal for homes with multiple floors.

With Two-Level Tubing, you can easily reach all areas of your home without having to move the vacuum unit.

The three level tubing system is a great way to keep your home clean, and it's actually pretty straightforward to design. The most important principle is to keep the tubing as short as possible to achieve the highest possible vacuum performance.

You'll want to place the inlet valves between different levels, this way you can easily clean two levels from one valve. This is a recommended setup for three level central vacuum tubing.

The main pipe can be installed in the under-house crawl space, attic, closet, or between walls. This is a common setup for multi-story houses.

In new one-story houses, the horizontal main pipe is placed in the under-house crawl space or in the attic. This can also be a good option for multi-story houses.

You can route the pipes through the attic and then vertically inside the partition walls and closets all the way to the inlet valves. This is a great way to minimize the length of the tubing.

It's also worth noting that the outside diameter of the piping system is 2" and is 2-1/8" at the extension. This is an important consideration when designing your tubing system.

To design a central vacuum system, you want to plan your layout carefully. Begin by running the main PVC vacuum line through the center of your home, either under the subfloor, via a crawl space, or within an attic.

This main line should then branch out into trunk lines that terminate at your inlets. Be aware of situations where the PVC might encounter condensation, like near a chimney, and consider switching to a metal product or using insulation.

A good rule of thumb is to limit each inlet to serving no more than 800 square feet.

The key to a successful central vacuum system is a well-designed tubing system. Keep the main pipe as short as possible to achieve the highest vacuum performance.

The outside diameter of the piping system is typically 2 inches, with a 2-1/8 inch diameter at the extension. This ensures a smooth flow of air and easy passage of the extension and low-voltage cable.

Through-holes in the walls must be at least 2-3/16 inches to 2-1/2 inches in diameter to accommodate the extension and cable. This is crucial to prevent any blockages or damage to the system.

Running the tubing beneath the sub-floor is often the most efficient route, creating the shortest path between the inlet valves and the power unit. This also makes it easier to work with the system.

However, if the piping must run next to a water heater or chimney flue, use metal central vacuum system piping for safety and to comply with building codes. This is a critical consideration to avoid any potential hazards or system failures.

In new one-story houses, the horizontal main pipe is often placed in the under-house crawl space or in the attic. Insulating the piping in the crawl space and covering it with insulation in the attic can prevent condensation and clogging.

A central vacuum system can be healthier because it doesn’t emit air back into the home as a standalone model does. This is especially beneficial for people with allergies or respiratory issues.

The main portion of the vacuum, the canister that handles the actual vacuuming and filtering, resides in a garage or other remote location, making it a more space-efficient option.

This setup also means that the noise from the vacuum is contained outside, providing a quieter living space.

Installing a hose sock on your central vacuum hose is a straightforward process. Download the installation instructions from the VacuSweep website, which cover all types of hoses, including direct connect, pigtail, low voltage, and no voltage.

You can choose from 30 or 35 ft. hose socks, depending on your needs.

The VacPan Automatic Dustpan is a game-changer for cleaning enthusiasts. It's a simple system that allows you to sweep and then activate the foot switch to watch the dirt disappear into the vacuum system.

You'll need to install a kick plate in a cabinet or wall to get started with the VacPan. This is a necessary step for the system to work properly.

The VacPan makes quick work of dirt and debris, leaving your floors clean and dust-free.

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To install a BEAM system, start by determining the best place to install the inlet, either under a cabinet or in the wall, considering ease of access for vacuum pipe connections.

Plan the location to be conveniently located for sweeping clean-ups and ensure the leading edge of the inlet sits flush with the finished floor.

For maximum clearance, use a short 90-degree elbow for connection at the inlet and don't glue the connection between the inlet and elbow.

Use Teflon tape if required and allow for 1/2" vertical play in vacuum piping at the inlet's location for final piping connections.

Run vacuum pipe and low voltage wire from the main line to the inlet's location, making access for final piping connections.

Cut a 6-3/4" long x 1-3/4" high slot in the wall and baseboard to accept the inlet's baseboard mount, and remove the 2x4 wall bottom plate between the two studs.

Slide the inlet into its mounting slot, securing it to the wall with the screws provided, and attach low voltage wires to the inlet's terminal connections marked "low voltage only".

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Installing a central vacuum system requires specialized installations for certain rooms and areas in your home.

A wet bar or kitchen area may need a moisture-resistant or waterproof vacuum outlet to prevent damage to the system.

A garage or workshop may require a heavy-duty vacuum outlet that can handle large debris.

A laundry room often benefits from a vacuum outlet with a built-in filter to capture lint and other debris.

A home with pets may want to consider installing a vacuum outlet with a HEPA filter to capture pet dander and allergens.

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The power unit, also known as the central vacuum system, is the heart of your home's cleaning setup. It's usually installed in a heated area like the utility room, garage, or laundry room.

The power unit typically contains the vacuum motor and housing to suck and store dirt for removal. It uses the home's electrical system, usually a single 120V/20A circuit.

This is also where the bulk of the cost goes for a standard system in small and medium-sized homes. The power unit is where all the piping in the home comes back to, making it a crucial part of the system.

Most central vacuum systems use bags for filtration, which provides easier and more efficient cleaning. This keeps dangerous dust and dirt particles from the motor, prolonging the life of the system.

If the power unit is installed in a cold storage room, the vacuum tubing and exhaust pipe should be insulated to avoid condensation. This is a simple but important step to ensure the system runs smoothly.

The power unit typically contains filters and noise suppression to allow it to operate in a garage or other centralized area of the home. This makes it a convenient and practical solution for many homeowners.

Inlets are the point of contact for your central vac system, where you connect your power brush and start vacuuming.

A single inlet can cover up to 900 square feet of living space, which is roughly the size of a 30′ x 30′ room.

Inlets can be mounted in baseboards or at the same height as electrical outlets, approximately 18 inches from the floor.

Electrified inlets are a popular option, but it's recommended to mount them at electric outlet height, rather than baseboard level, to ensure a smooth installation process.

Standard utility valves can even be used to clean the car in the garage, making them a convenient option for multi-purpose cleaning.

Inlets can be installed in interior wall cavities and serve as the point of interface between the piping and the power brush hose.

You don't want to place inlets too far apart, or you'll end up with extra-long hoses that can't reach the room corners using standard hose lengths.

Central vacuum inlets can be bought as new construction or aftermarket solutions, making it easy to upgrade or install a system in an existing home.

Central vacuum systems come in different types, each with its own unique features and benefits.

There are two main types of central vacuum systems: whole-house systems and dedicated systems. Whole-house systems are the most common type and are designed to cover the entire house, while dedicated systems are smaller and designed for specific areas or rooms.

A whole-house system typically requires a central location, such as a basement or garage, to house the vacuum unit and accessories. This central location is usually chosen for its accessibility and proximity to the home's plumbing system.

Whole-house systems can be powered by a single motor or multiple motors, depending on the size of the house and the number of outlets. A single motor system is simpler and less expensive, but may not provide enough suction power for larger homes.

Dedicated systems, on the other hand, are designed for smaller areas and are often used in apartments or condos. They are usually more compact and energy-efficient than whole-house systems.

A dedicated system typically consists of a smaller vacuum unit and a few outlets, making it ideal for smaller spaces.

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Installing a central vacuum system is a significant undertaking, but with the right setup, it can be a breeze. The first step is to determine the best location for the central unit, which is usually a basement or utility room.

The central unit should be placed on a level surface, away from direct sunlight and moisture. This will help ensure the unit's longevity and performance. The unit should also be easily accessible for maintenance and repairs.

Before installing the central unit, make sure to read the manufacturer's instructions and follow any specific requirements for your home's electrical system. This will help prevent any electrical shocks or damage to the unit.

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Before you finalize your system, give it a test run to ensure everything is working as it should. This is called "pressure-testing" and it's a crucial step to catch any issues early on.

You should run the system with all inlet doors closed and observe the exhaust output - there should be little to none. This will give you a good indication if the system is functioning properly.

Walking the house while the system is being tested is also a good idea. Listen for any obvious leaks, which can be a sign that you forgot to glue up a section of PVC.

To remove an in-wall VacPan installation, first locate the area between the studs where the inlet was installed. The 2x4 wall bottom plate between the two studs must be removed, which can be achieved from below by using a hole saw.

This allows you to access the piping connections. Run vacuum pipe and low voltage wire from the main line to the inlet's location and make access for final piping connections. If access is available from below, cut an access hole through the sub-floor underneath the wall between the studs.

Cut a 2-3/4" x 2-1/2" access hole to make final piping connections. A cover plate can then be used to cover this hole after completion of removal.

When building a new home, it's a good idea to ask your builder to include a BEAM Central Vacuum System. This will make it easier to install the system and ensure it's done correctly.

You'll want to discuss locations for the power unit/dirt collection canister, the vacuum inlets, and a place to store a hose and attachment kit on each level with your builder. Enlarging a closet or including an extra base cabinet is all it takes.

If your builder is familiar with BEAM, he may suggest a VacPan automatic dustpan in the kitchen, near exterior doors, in family or laundry rooms, or wherever you're planning hard-surface floors. This can be a convenient and efficient addition to your new home.

Installation of your BEAM system is typically done after plumbing and electrical work is completed and before wallboard is installed. Your builder may also recommend hiring a certified BEAM dealer to do the job if they're not familiar with the system.

You can also opt to install your BEAM Central Vacuum System on your own, but be sure to check out the Do-It-Yourself installation page for step-by-step instructions.

If you're considering upgrading your existing central vacuum system, you'll want to check out the Vaculet Conversion process. This involves changing your vaculet inlet to a new low voltage inlet, which requires a trim plat cover to cover any extra holes or spaces in the wall.

To complete the Vaculet Conversion, you'll need to download information on how to make the change. This will ensure a smooth transition to your new low voltage inlet.

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The CenTec Hose Handle Conversion is a great way to upgrade your system. This conversion replaces the original hose handle with a more advanced one, providing improved functionality and reliability.

The CenTec Hose Handle Conversion is designed to work seamlessly with the existing system, ensuring a smooth transition. This is achieved by utilizing the same mounting points and connections as the original handle.

One of the key benefits of the CenTec Hose Handle Conversion is its ability to withstand harsh environments and extreme temperatures. This is made possible by the use of high-quality materials and a robust design.

The conversion process typically takes less than an hour to complete, making it a quick and easy upgrade. This is a significant advantage over other conversion options that may require more time and effort.

By upgrading to the CenTec Hose Handle Conversion, you can expect to see a noticeable improvement in system performance and reliability. This is particularly important in applications where downtime is not an option.

The CenTec Hose Handle Conversion is a cost-effective solution that provides a high return on investment. This is achieved by reducing maintenance costs and increasing system uptime.

If you're considering a Vaculet conversion, you'll want to start by downloading information on how to change your vaculet inlet to our new low voltage inlets.

Typically, you'll need a low voltage inlet along with a trim plat cover to cover any extra holes or spaces in the wall.

This upgrade can be a bit involved, but with the right guidance, it's definitely doable.

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