How to Replace RV AC Unit in 5 Easy Steps

Replacing your RV AC unit can seem like a daunting task, but with the right approach, it's definitely doable. According to the article, the first step is to shut off the power to the AC unit at the circuit breaker or fuse box.

Before you start, make sure you have the right tools and replacement parts. The article notes that you'll need a new AC unit, a mounting bracket, and any necessary electrical connectors.

It's essential to choose the right replacement AC unit for your RV. The article suggests checking the unit's BTU rating and ensuring it matches your RV's cooling needs.

Installing the new RV A/C unit requires some careful maneuvering. Once the new unit is up on the roof, maneuver it into position, which may require two people to ensure proper placement on the gasket.

To access the front mounting holes and wiring, cut the foil tape and remove the screws from the new unit. This will allow you to remove the sheet-metal cover.

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Mark the location of the existing mounting holes on the new unit and drill into the baseplate to match them. On a design without ducts, you won't need to drill, as the four bolts run right through the access hole in the roof.

Install the four screws, taking care not to overtighten and distort the base. Overtightening can lead to warping, causing leaking, excessive vibration, and fan and/or compressor noise.

Installing an RV A/C unit requires some finesse, but with the right steps, you'll be cooling down in no time.

First, make sure you have two people to help you maneuver the new unit into position on the roof. This will ensure proper placement on the gasket.

Cut the foil tape and remove the screws from the new unit to access the front mounting holes and wiring.

Most new units come with a foam gasket to seal the area around the access hole, so set the new unit in place and mark the existing mounting holes to match them.

Drill into the new air conditioner's baseplate to secure the unit, but be careful not to overtighten and distort the base.

Overtightening can lead to warping, causing leaking, excessive vibration, and fan and/or compressor noise.

To finish the mount, install the four screws, taking care to not overtighten.

Apply a dab of caulk over each of the four mounting screw heads to seal any gaps.

Once the wiring is reconnected and the temperature probe is in place, attach the control box to the sheet-metal cover with the two wing nuts.

After reinstalling the cover, cover the seams with a new roll of foil tape to ensure a watertight seal.

Before switching the circuit breaker back on, test the unit to make sure everything is working properly.

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Installing an A/C is a straightforward process, but it does require some care to ensure a watertight seal.

First, replace the gasket on the bottom of the unit if it's damaged, as it's cheap and offers peace of mind.

To maneuver the new unit into position, you may need two people to ensure proper placement on the gasket.

Once the unit is in place, mark the location of the existing mounting holes to match them with the new unit's baseplate.

Overtightening the screws can lead to warping, so take care not to overtighten and distort the base.

Apply a dab of caulk over each of the four mounting screw heads to ensure a secure seal.

Before reinstalling the cover, switch the circuit breaker back on and test the unit to make sure it's working properly.

When reconnecting the wiring harnesses, reattach the metal covering that goes over the clip inside the unit, and double-check that no wires are pinched or in a compromising position.

To tighten the bolts, start by getting all 4 bolts started, then work your way around each corner incrementally, checking that the gasket is compressing properly.

Don't overtighten the bolts, just make sure they're snugly in place to maintain a watertight seal.

Once the unit is installed and tested, reattach the faceplate/covering and grill insert, and perform a quick check to ensure everything is operational.

Removing the old RV AC unit is a crucial step in replacing it with a new one. First, switch off the circuit breaker that supplies the 120-volt-AC power to the air conditioner so it's safe to work on.

You'll also want to set the thermostat to the "off" position to ensure everything is shut down properly. This is a simple step that can save you from potential electrical shocks or injuries.

Next, remove the fiberglass cover by taking out the four screws that hold it in place. Be gentle when handling the screws to avoid stripping their heads.

Inside the cool air plenum, you'll find electrical connections and components that need to be disconnected. Remove the sheet-metal cover from the plenum to access these components.

The plenum joints may be taped, so use a utility knife to cut the tape at the joints. This will give you a clear path to disconnect the 120-volt-AC wires.

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You'll likely see the entire control box connected to the thermostat using two wing nuts. Remove these wing nuts and put the control box down into the plenum to get it out of the way.

There may also be a temperature sensor probe inserted into the evaporator coil that can be removed. Take this opportunity to clean the area around the probe.

Some units have a diffuser in the ceiling that must be removed before you can access the air conditioner. Remove the four bolts that hold the air conditioner to the roof, and then slide the old unit out of the way.

Finally, thoroughly clean the rooftop area once the old unit is removed. This will give you a clean slate to work with when installing the new unit.

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Measuring the hole in your RV's roof for the new AC unit is a crucial step. Most standard vents, skylights, and fans will fit a 14×14 inch hole with no cutting required.

But don't skip measuring the opening just yet. You should still double-check to make sure it's around 14×14 inches.

A garnish ring is a must-have for a clean finish inside your RV. The plastic ring fits around the vent, fan, or skylight from the inside and covers the open wood from the roof.

Most standard RV vents come with a 2 1/2 inch garnish ring, but you might need a custom length depending on your RV's roof thickness. Measure the roof thickness from the inside to get the correct parts.

Removing the inside cover of your RV AC unit will give you a clear view of the roof thickness, making it easier to measure and order the right garnish ring.

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Removing the old RV A/C unit is a crucial step in replacing it. Switch off the circuit breaker that supplies the 120-volt-AC power to the air conditioner so that it is safe to perform work.

To start, remove the fiberglass cover by unscrewing the four screws that hold it in place. Next, remove the sheet-metal cover from the cool air plenum to access the electrical connections and components.

Disconnect the 120-volt-AC wires, which are likely connected to the thermostat using two wing nuts. Remove the two wing nuts and put the control box down into the plenum to get it out of the way.

You may also need to remove a temperature sensor probe inserted into the evaporator coil. Some units have a diffuser in the ceiling that must be removed from the interior ceiling.

The four bolts that hold the air conditioner to the roof must be removed, along with any screws installed from the A/C unit and tapped into the steel tube roof trusses. Scrape off any old caulk from the screws and remove them to slide the old A/C unit out of the way.

Once the old unit is removed, thoroughly clean the rooftop area to prepare for the new unit's installation.

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