Common Garden Pests and How to Manage Them

Garden pests can be a real nuisance, eating away at your hard work and leaving your plants looking sad and stressed. Aphids, for example, can multiply quickly and spread disease to nearby plants.

Some common garden pests include aphids, slugs, and snails, as well as caterpillars and whiteflies. These pests can be found in gardens all over the world.

To manage these pests, it's essential to know their habits and patterns. For instance, slugs and snails are most active at night and prefer to feed on leaves and stems.

By understanding the life cycles of these pests, you can take targeted action to control their populations.

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As you tend to your garden, it's essential to understand the difference between beneficial and harmful insects. Beneficial insects, like ladybugs, parasitic wasps, and green lacewings, are predators and parasites of garden pests, helping to keep your garden's ecosystem in balance.

These beneficial insects can be attracted to your garden with flowers from the daisy and dill families, as well as a water source. Ladybugs, for example, are particularly fond of plants infested with aphids, whitefly, and mealybug.

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Parasitic wasps are another beneficial insect that can help control pests like whitefly, aphids, scale, caterpillars, and more. They too prefer flowers from the daisy and dill families and a water source.

Green lacewings are beneficial insects that feed on aphids, whitefly, mites, and mealybugs. They can be attracted to your garden with flowers from the daisy and dill families and a water source.

On the other hand, some insects are pests that can cause significant damage to your plants. Aphids, for instance, can be found on leaves, stems, and roots of many vegetables, fruits, flowers, and ornamentals.

Some common pests include aphids, leafminers, mealybugs, scale, mites, thrips, and whiteflies. These pests can be controlled using a variety of methods, including beneficial insects, neem, oil, pyrethrins, row covers, soap, and water spray.

Here's a list of some common pests and their preferred locations:

By understanding which insects are beneficial and which are pests, you can take steps to attract the good bugs and control the bad ones, keeping your garden healthy and thriving.

Caterpillars and worms are the larval stage of moths and butterflies, making them trickier to deal with because many will turn into the pollinators that your garden needs.

These pests feed on plants, consuming leaves and stems, and can quickly destroy leaves and flowers if left unchecked. They have chewing mouthparts and are voracious feeders.

Caterpillars can be identified by their shape and size, with some species reaching up to 4 inches in length. For example, the Tomato Hornworm can grow 3.0-4.0 inches in length and has a distinctive "horn" or spikey tail.

Some common caterpillar pests include the Tomato Hornworm, Cabbageworm, and Cabbage Looper, which feed on leaves and flowers of vegetables like tomatoes, cabbage, and broccoli.

Here are some common caterpillar pests and their controls:

Caterpillars are the larval stage of moths and butterflies, and they can be a real nuisance in the garden. They have chewing mouthparts and feed on leaves and flowers, causing significant damage.

Some common types of caterpillars include the Tomato Hornworm, which feeds on the leaves and fruits of tomato family plants, and the Cabbage Looper, which feeds on the leaves and flowering heads of cabbage family crops. The Codling Moth caterpillar feeds on the fruits of fruit trees, such as apples and pears.

Caterpillars can be controlled using various methods, including handpicking, beneficial insects, and biological insecticides like Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis). Floating row covers can also be used to prevent early egg laying.

Here are some specific control methods for common caterpillar pests:

It's worth noting that many caterpillars can be left alone, as they will eventually turn into butterflies or moths that are beneficial to the garden. However, if they are causing significant damage, it's best to take action to control their populations.

Asparagus can be a challenging crop to protect from pests, but there are some effective strategies to keep in mind. Destroy and bury plant refuse in the fall to remove overwintering sites.

The Spotted Asparagus Beetle is a common problem, measuring between 0.25-0.3 in. in length. Handpick and destroy eggs, larvae, and adults in the morning before they become active.

To prevent beetles from overwintering, spray asparagus ferns with pyrethrin or rotenone in late summer. Be aware that these chemicals can harm beneficial pollinating and predatory insects, as well.

Cutting foliage off at the ground as soon as it begins to die back is another effective way to control asparagus pests.

Borers are a type of pest that can be particularly problematic for gardeners. They are the larvae of beetles and moths that chew their way into plant trunks, crowns, and stems.

Borers can provide entry points for infectious diseases, leading to rot that can kill plants. This is why it's essential to control them early on. Squash vine borers, for example, target the stems of vegetables in the squash family, except in areas west of the Rocky Mountains.

To control squash vine borers, you can use Bt, handpick the larvae, plant early, or use resistant plants like butternut squash. Row covers can also be effective in preventing infestations.

Some borers, like the European corn borer, can be found in a variety of plants, including corn, tomatoes, potatoes, and peppers. To control these pests, you can use Bt or destroy or plow under spent cornstalks.

Here are some specific controls for common borers:

By understanding the habits and habitats of these pests, you can take targeted steps to prevent and control infestations.

Borers are a type of pest that can be challenging to control, especially since they can enter plants before they're even visible.

Borers are typically the larvae of beetles and moths, and they can chew their way into trunks, crowns, and stems of many plants.

Spraying to control borers is often ineffective because it needs to be timed before the pest actually enters the plant.

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Some borers, like the Squash Vine Borer, can be found in the stems of vegetables like squash, while others, like the Peach Tree Borer, target trunks of fruit trees like peaches and plums.

If you're dealing with a Squash Vine Borer, it's essential to cover your plants with fine mesh cloth or row cover until female flowers appear.

For the Peach Tree Borer, you can try squishing the borer by sticking a wire into the hole, or using nematodes to control the pest.

To control the European Corn Borer, you can use Bt or destroy or plow under spent cornstalks.

Here's a quick rundown of some common borers and their controls:

If you're growing corn, you might encounter earworms, which can damage the tip of the ear. Cut off the damaged tips and you can still eat the rest.

Tight-husked corn varieties are a good choice for planting because they inhibit worm movement into the ear. This can help minimize damage.

Planting and harvesting corn early in the season can also help avoid heavy infestations. This is because earworms tend to be more active later in the season.

To repel moths and prevent egg laying, try dropping 1/4 teaspoon of mineral oil on the silks of each corn ear after the silks have wilted but before they begin to dry.

It's also worth noting that earworms can feed on other vegetables, so try to avoid planting them near corn if possible.

Here are some tips for managing earworms on tomatoes:

Squash bugs are a common pest that can cause significant damage to your squash plants. They lay oval, orange-brown eggs on squash leaves or nearby surfaces, which can be mistaken for lady beetle eggs.

Remove and destroy these egg clusters to prevent the bugs from hatching. It's also essential to remove and destroy squash vines and unused fruit during the season and after harvest to eliminate overwintering sites. This will help prevent the bugs from surviving the winter and coming back to infest your plants again.

Here's a quick way to identify squash bugs: look for the distinctive X-shape on their back. Their young, called nymphs, resemble the adults and attack leaves, flowers, and fruit.

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Ground beetles are excellent slug predators and can help keep slug populations in check. You can maintain a beetle bank, a permanent field border with vegetation close to the ground, to encourage their presence.

Slugs like to feed on young seedlings and succulent parts of plants, leaving a trail of mucus on surfaces. They deposit their eggs in moist areas and require a year or more to mature. To control slugs, spade or till the garden area in the fall and again in the spring before planting.

Slugs are attracted to beer, so you can place stale beer in small cups or pans sunken in the soil to trap them. Replace the stale beer every 3 days for best results. Diatomaceous earth, lime, or sawdust can also be used as a barrier to deter slugs, but replace it after each rain.

To trap slugs, you can also use shallow saucers filled with beer at ground level. Discard drowned slugs and snails and refill the traps frequently. It's best to use traps in the spring, as this is when slugs are most active.

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Cutworms are active only at night and remain buried below the soil surface near food plants during the day. They emerge to feed at night and often cut seedlings or small stems, causing the plants to fall over.

To prevent seedling damage, place a paper or plastic sleeve over the plant and press the bottom into the soil. This will keep the cutworms from reaching the plant. Paper cups with the bottoms removed or 4-inch-high sections of half-gallon paper milk cartons are ideal.

Cutworms prefer to feed on grass and many weeds, so removing them from the garden is crucial. Grass and weeds should be removed in advance of planting, and the soil should be plowed well in advance of planting.

If using carbaryl bait, apply it after plant emergence in the afternoon according to label directions. However, do not use carbaryl bait near riparian or other wetlands due to its high toxicity for aquatic life.

Here are some effective controls for cutworms:

Slugs are slimy and black or brown, and they look similar to short worms but have tiny antennae. They leave behind tell-tale signs like holes in soft plants, such as tomatoes or strawberries.

Slugs eat at night, so they can be hard to spot, but you can find them by following their slime trails back to their homes. You can also welcome slug predators into your garden, like birds, toads, turtles, and snakes.

Slugs prefer moist, cool areas and can be found hiding under mulch, garden debris, or near rocks. They deposit their eggs in moist areas and require a year or more to mature.

To control slug populations, try spading or tilling the garden area in the fall and spring before planting. You can also pick slugs by hand using an old teaspoon, place them in a container of salt or soapy water, and continue this activity for three or four nights in a row.

Here are some effective methods to control slugs:

Slugs can be hard to spot, but by following their slime trails and creating a welcoming environment for predators, you can reduce their populations and protect your garden.

Groundhogs are herbivores and will eat fruits and vegetables. They'll also munch on twigs, barks, blossoms, and seedlings if those are all they can find.

To keep them out of your garden, remove the brush they hide in. This means trimming overgrown shrubs and getting rid of brush piles and tall grasses near your garden.

Deer can be a real nuisance in the garden, munching on hostas, roses, azaleas, ivy, and pretty much anything in your vegetable garden.

Growing plants like alliums, juniper, and boxwood can help keep deer away, as they're naturally deer-resistant.

A fence can be a physical barrier to keep deer out of your garden, but it's not the only solution.

Deer love to chomp on just about anything in your garden, so it's essential to take steps to protect your plants.

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Aphids can be a real nuisance in the garden, eating plant sap and secreting honeydew that attracts ants and can lead to black fungus.

To repel aphids, try anchoring aluminum foil to the soil around transplants, sloping the soil away from the plant to keep the reflective surface clear.

You can also use yellow sticky cards to attract and trap flying and crawling aphids, replacing the cards when they're full of insects.

Ladybugs are a great natural solution - a single ladybug larva can eat up to 50 aphids a day.

For Colorado potato beetles, handpicking is a simple and effective solution - just remove and destroy orange egg masses, reddish-brown larvae, and yellow-and-black striped adults.

Squash bugs can be eliminated by removing and destroying clusters of oval, orange-brown eggs on squash leaves or nearby surfaces.

Here's a quick rundown of some of the above ground pests we've covered and how to manage them:

Repelling aphids can be as simple as anchoring aluminum foil to the soil around transplants. This reflective surface deters aphids, so make sure to slope the soil away from the plant to maintain its effectiveness.

Aphids can be knocked off plants with a strong spray of water from the hose, or you can cut off the affected stem and crush it on the ground. Insecticidal soap is also effective, but the area where they've been feeding may still show some distortion as it grows.

Ladybug larvae and lacewings can help bring aphid populations under control, so consider introducing these beneficial insects to your garden. These natural predators can eat aphids by the dozens, with ladybug larvae alone consuming up to 50 aphids a day.

Yellow sticky cards can be used to attract and trap flying and crawling aphids, as well as other pests like leafhoppers and whiteflies. Replace the cards when they're full of insects, and consider placing them in areas where pests are most active.

To control flea beetles, you can use yellow sticky traps or neem oil. Healthy plants can usually survive some flea beetle damage, but severe infestations may require additional control measures.

Here are some natural methods for managing aboveground pests:

By using these natural methods, you can manage aboveground pests without resorting to harsh chemicals. Remember to always monitor your garden and adjust your control methods as needed.

Leafhoppers are a common problem in many gardens. They can transmit viral diseases to plants, so it's essential to remove diseased plants to delay the spread.

To protect your plants from leafhoppers, you can use cheesecloth or other fine mesh row covering. This will prevent them from reaching your plants in the first place.

Yellow sticky cards are another effective way to trap leafhoppers. Replace the cards when they're full of insects to keep the problem under control.

Spraying plants with RTU (ready-to-use) insecticidal soap can also help control leafhopper populations.

Leafhoppers are relatively small, measuring between 0.05 and 0.25 inches in length.

Here are some key facts about leafhoppers:

Japanese Beetles are a common problem in gardens, and they can be quite destructive. They're voracious eaters, consuming leaves and flowers, leaving behind only leaf veins.

Adult Japanese Beetles are ½-inch long and have coppery wings, and they're metallic blue or green in color. They're most active in the summer months when the adult population is high.

To control Japanese Beetles, it's essential to handpick them daily as soon as they appear, and dispose of them in a container of soapy water. This method can be effective, especially if done consistently.

Japanese Beetles tend to emerge all at once, with adults maturing simultaneously. Handpicking or letting them fall into a bucket of soapy water in the early morning during the first few days of emergence can reduce their chemical signaling to other adults.

Here are some plants that Japanese Beetles tend to avoid:

These plants are less desirable to Japanese Beetles, making them a great addition to your garden. By incorporating these plants, you can reduce the attractiveness of your garden to these pests.

It's worth noting that pesticide sprays can kill adult beetles but provide no ongoing protection from further infestations. The beetles can fly from considerable distances to find food, so it's essential to be proactive in controlling their population.

Cucumber beetles can be a real nuisance in the garden. They're attracted to the bitter compound in cucumber varieties, so it's best to plant nonbitter ones.

Covering your cucumber plants with cheesecloth or floating row covers can prevent early egg laying by the beetles.

Eliminating weeds in and around the garden is crucial, as they can host bacterial wilt disease that's spread by cucumber beetles.

The striped and spotted cucumber beetles are quite small, measuring only 0.2-0.25 inches in length.

Here are some tips to keep in mind when dealing with cucumber beetles:

Managing pests in your garden can be a challenge, but there are many effective ways to do so. Insecticides should be used sparingly and applied only to the affected plants, as they can kill beneficial insects as well.

Varying the location of each kind of vegetable in your garden annually can help reduce pest infestation. Some insect pests overwinter in the garden soil and emerge the following year to search for food.

To lure harmful insects away from your target plants, use trap plants that are preferred by those pests. For example, pickleworms prefer squash over cucumber, and some tomato worms prefer dill over tomato.

A collar made of thick paper or cardboard can prevent cutworms and other burrowing insects from getting into the soil around your plants. Yellow sticky cards can also attract and intercept aphids, whiteflies, and other small flying insects.

Adding plants that repel pests can be a great way to manage them. Japanese beetles, aphids, and cabbage loopers tend to stay away from garlic, while fragrant plants like rosemary can repel slugs and snails.

Monitoring pest populations is essential when implementing floral diversity, as flowers attract both good and bad insects. Over time, the good insects should help keep bad insects below damaging thresholds.

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