
Building your own cedar planter box can be a fun and rewarding DIY project. You can find free cedar planter box plans online that cater to different skill levels and design preferences.
The size of your planter box will depend on the space you have available and the type of plants you want to grow. For a small space, a 2x2 foot planter box is a good starting point.
Cedar is a durable and rot-resistant wood that's perfect for outdoor projects like planter boxes. It can withstand harsh weather conditions and requires minimal maintenance.
Introduction
Cedar planter boxes are a beautiful and functional way to add some greenery to your outdoor space. They can be made to fit any style or size of garden, and cedar is a durable and rot-resistant material that will last for years to come.
With the right plans, you can create a cedar planter box that will add a touch of elegance to your yard. Cedar planter box plans free are available online, making it easy to get started on your project.
Building a cedar planter box is a fun and rewarding DIY project that can be completed in a weekend. With the right tools and materials, you can create a beautiful and functional planter box that will bring joy to your outdoor space.
Cedar planter boxes are a great way to add some color and texture to your garden, and they can be used to grow a wide variety of plants, from herbs and vegetables to flowers and shrubs.
Materials and Preparation
To build a cedar planter box, you'll need to gather the right materials and prepare them for assembly.
First, measure carefully before cutting any wood to ensure a precise fit. You'll need to cut two pieces of 1 inch by 2 inch wood to 12 5/8 inch long for the top trim.
For the top trim, you'll also need two more pieces of 1 inch by 2 inch wood, cut to 18 inches long. The type of trim you use can change depending on the finished look you're going for.
Readers also liked: Rectangular Wood Planter Box
You'll also need 1/2 inch by 1 inch trim for the corners, which will be installed vertically. This can be adjusted to be wider if you prefer a different look.
The bottom of the planter box will require 1 inch by 1 inch trim pieces. Make sure to have a battery-powered nail gun on hand to make assembly much easier.
Frame and Sides
To assemble the sides of your cedar planter box, start by attaching three slats and two rails to each other using 1 ¼" screws from the inside. Make sure to pre-drill your holes, as thin cedar is prone to splitting.
The slats should be flush with the top of the rail, set in 1 ½" from the sides of the rails, and ¾" from the bottom rail. This is the same for both short and long side panels.
Use 1 ¼" screws for assembling the panels, and don't forget to attach them at the corners using 2" exterior screws. Two screws per corner are a good rule of thumb, for a total of 8 screws at each end.
Build the Frame
To build the frame, start by attaching the two long sides and two short sides together at the corners. Use 2" exterior screws, and I recommend using two screws per corner for added stability.
The total number of screws needed at each end is 8. Make sure to secure the corners firmly to create a sturdy frame.
Assemble Sides
Attach the sides together to form a box, and you're halfway to creating a sturdy frame. To assemble the sides, start by attaching the long side to the short side, using four screws about halfway in.
Make sure to align the long side with the end of the short side, and screw in each screw a little at a time to ensure the corner joint comes together evenly. This will help prevent any unevenness or warping.
You can use a 2×2 corner support to add extra stability to the joint, and screw in 3-4 screws through the pre-drilled holes. I've found that three screws work just as well as four, without compromising the structural integrity of the frame.
To assemble the short side panels, attach three slats and two rails to each other using 1 ¼" screws from the inside, making sure to pre-drill your holes to prevent splitting. The slats should be flush with the top of the rail, set in 1 ½" from the sides of the rails, and ¾" from the bottom rail.
For the long side panels, ensure the slats are flush on the top, left, and right, and set in the bottom of the rails ¾". Use 1 ¼" screws to attach the slats to the rails.
Here's a quick rundown of the screws you'll need for each side:
Remember, it's okay if your corners aren't perfect – they'll be covered up by trim, and the imperfections won't affect the overall structure of the frame.
Frame and Sides
Building the frame and sides of your cedar planter box is a crucial step in bringing your project to life. You'll need to attach the sides together to form a box.
To assemble the short side panels, attach three slats and two rails to each other using 1 ¼" screws from the inside. Pre-drill your holes to avoid splitting the thin cedar.
Make sure the slats are flush with the top of the rail, set in 1 ½" from the sides of the rails, and ¾" from the bottom rail. Use 1 ¼" screws for a secure attachment.
For the long side panels, ensure the slats are flush on the top, left, and right. Set the slats in the bottom of the rails ¾" from the bottom rail.
Attach the long side panels and short side panels together at the corners using 2" exterior screws. Two screws per corner will provide a sturdy attachment.
To ensure even corner joints, screw each screw in a little bit at a time as you attach the first two sides together.
Slats and Trim
To build a beautiful cedar planter box, you'll need to attach the slats and trim pieces. First, cut the short slat pieces to size and attach them to the opposite sides with 3/4" wood screws and wood glue, making sure they're flush with the ends of each frame.
A different take: Outdoor Wood Box
You'll also need to attach the long slat pieces, cutting them to size and securing them with 3/4" wood screws and wood glue, ensuring they're flush with the edges of the short slats.
For the trim pieces, you'll need to attach the first set of trim pieces to the short slat sides with 1 1/4" brad nails and wood glue, making sure they're flush with the ends of the long slats and the top and bottom of the frame.
Attach the Slats
Attaching the slats is a crucial step in building your planter box. The slats should be flush with the ends of each frame.
To start, cut the short slat pieces to size and attach them to the opposite sides with 3/4" wood screws and wood glue. This will create a sturdy base for your planter box.
Measure and cut for the long slat pieces, and attach them the same way, on the remaining sides of the planter box. The long slats should be flush with the edges of the short slats.

You'll notice that the trim pieces are attached next. To do this, measure and cut the side trim pieces to size, and attach the first set of trim pieces on the short slat sides with 1 1/4" brad nails and wood glue. The trim pieces should be flush with the ends of the long slats and the top and bottom of the frame.
A table to help you visualize the trim pieces:
The final step is to attach the top trim pieces. Measure and cut the short top trim pieces to size, and attach them to the top and bottom of both short sides of the planter box with 1" brad nails and wood glue. The trim pieces should be flush with the top and bottom of the planter box.
Long Slat Trim
When working on a planter box, attaching the long slat trim is a crucial step. You'll need 1 1/4″ brad nails and wood glue for this task.
The long slat trim pieces should be flush with the short slat trim pieces, covering the edges of the long trim on the short slat side. This ensures a clean and finished look.
To attach the long slat trim, turn the frame over and work on a long slat side. You'll attach the remaining long trim pieces to the long slat sides in this step.
Here's a quick rundown of the tools and materials you'll need for this step:
- 1 1/4″ brad nails
- Wood glue
By following these steps, you'll be able to attach the long slat trim and give your planter box a professional finish.
DIY Tutorial
To assemble the sides of your cedar planter box, start by attaching the slats and rails to each other using 1 ¼" screws. Pre-drill your holes to avoid splitting the thin cedar wood.
The slats should be flush with the top of the rail, set in 1 ½" from the sides of the rails, and ¾" from the bottom rail. This will provide a sturdy base for your planter box.
To assemble the long side panels, make sure the slats are flush on the top, left, and right. Set in the bottom of the rails ¾". Use 1 ¼" screws to secure the slats to the rails.
Once your two long sides and two short sides are complete, attach them at the corners using 2" exterior screws. Two screws per corner will provide a secure hold.
Lumber Details and Cuts
I used all cedar lumber for my planter boxes because it can last many years without breaking down or needing any staining or treatment.
Cedar lumber can be expensive, but I saved a ton of money by buying directly from a lumberyard and using their discount decking lumber.
Each 5/4 inch (true 1 inch) x 6 inch x 8 foot board was only $4, but we couldn't cherry pick which ones we wanted.
We ordered extra to make up for any pieces that may be unusable, and we were still able to make 8 beds for around $350 worth of lumber.
On a similar theme: 4 Phases
The lumberyard also had 2 x 2 cedar corner supports available, which we used to add extra support to our planter boxes.
Here are the measurements we used for the lumber:
- Decking lumber: 5/4″ x 6″ x 8 foot (5/4 is actually a full 1 inch in depth but 6 inches is about 5.5 inches in width)
For the corner trim, we used 5/8″ x 3.5″x 6′ cedar fence slats from Home Depot, specifically 4 – 6 foot pieces for the length of the bed.
Featured Images: pexels.com


