Cedar Planter Box Plans Step by Step

Cedar planter box plans are a great way to add some natural charm to your outdoor space.

To start building your cedar planter box, you'll need to gather your materials, which can be found in the "Materials Needed" section.

First, cut four pieces of cedar wood to the length specified in the "Cutting List" section.

These pieces will form the sides of your planter box.

To make a cedar planter box, you'll need some basic materials and tools. You can get most of these from your local hardware store.

First, let's talk about the materials you'll need. For a standard cedar planter box, you'll need seven 5-1/2″ x 6′ cedar fence post boards. These will form the sides and bottom of your planter box.

You'll also need one 2”x2”x8’ common board, which will serve as the back of your planter box. Don't forget to pick up a plastic square flower pot to insert into the wooden planter box.

Exterior wood glue is a must-have for assembling your planter box. I recommend using Gorilla Glue brand for this. You'll also need a chop saw and a table saw to cut your cedar boards to the right size.

Here's a list of all the materials and tools you'll need:

Remember to make sure your square pot has drainage holes before inserting it into the wooden planter box.

To prepare the pieces for your cedar planter box, start by cutting all the pieces to length with a miter saw, except the crosspieces for the base.

Silva mounts a ⅜-inch stacked dado blade on a table saw to cut grooves at the ends of side-panel pieces, setting the blade to a precise ⅜-inch deep cut.

Cutting the right grooves is crucial for a sturdy planter, and a misaligned dado can harm the planter's structural integrity.

To start building your project, you'll need to create a cut list of all the necessary pieces. This will help you stay organized and ensure that you have everything you need.

The cut list for this project includes 4 legs, each measuring 3/4" x 1 1/2" x 15".

You'll also need 2 front/back bottom rails, which are 3/4" x 1 1/2" x 11" each.

Additionally, you'll need 2 front/back top rails, measuring 3/4" x 1 1/2" x 14 1/4" each.

The cut list also includes 4 side rails, each measuring 3/4" x 1 1/2" x 10 1/2".

Two top front/back pieces are needed, each measuring 3/4" x 1 1/2" x 17 3/4".

You'll also need 2 top side pieces, each measuring 3/4" x 1 1/2" x 9 1/2".

To complete the project, you'll need 14 cedar panels, each measuring 5/8" x 12" x 3 1/2".

Finally, you'll need 3 bottom slats, each measuring 3/4" x 3 1/2" x 10 1/2".

Here's a summary of the cut list:

Cutting the pieces to length is a crucial step in preparing the planter box. Silva uses a miter saw for this task, except for the crosspieces for the base.

Silva mounts a ⅜-inch stacked dado blade on a table saw to cut grooves at the ends of side-panel pieces. This is a precise cut, set to ⅜-inch deep.

To make the rails, Silva rips 5/4×6 cedar boards to 2 ¾ inches wide for the top rails and 5 inches wide for the bottom ones. He uses a dado blade on the table saw to cut ⅜-inch deep grooves along one edge of each rail.

A misaligned dado can harm the planter's structural integrity, so the dadoes must fit snugly with the panel pieces. This is especially important for a planter that will hold soil and plants.

Silva drills evenly spaced holes through the inside faces at both ends of the rails using a pocket-hole jig and bit. He also drills pocket holes into the inside faces of the top rails, down toward the undadoed sides.

Silva positions the saw's fence to make a full-length dado in one side of each rail, offset about ⅛ inch from the side's centerline. This is a precise measurement, and it's essential for the planter's structure.

Silva clamps a 1 guide block to the fence and cuts ⅜ x ⅜ inch rabbets on both ends. If done right, the offset dado will make a pleasing ¼-inch reveal between the panel pieces and rails on the planter's outside faces.

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To make the frame of your cedar planter box, you'll need to cut four pieces of cedar to the correct length, as specified in the plans. The frame will be the base of your planter box, so make sure to cut accurately.

Cutting the frame pieces to the correct length will ensure a sturdy base for your planter box. This will also make it easier to assemble the box itself.

The cedar pieces should be cut at a 90-degree angle to create a square frame. This will provide a solid foundation for your plants to grow in.

Cutting dadoes and rabbets is a crucial step in making the frame of your planter box. Position the saw's fence to make a full-length dado in one side of each rail, offset about ⅛ inch from the side's centerline.

To create a snug fit for the panel pieces, Silva uses a dado blade to cut ⅜-inch deep grooves along one edge of each rail. The dadoes must fit snugly with the panel pieces to maintain the planter's structural integrity.

Cut ⅜ x ⅜ inch rabbets on both ends of the rail using a guide block clamped to the fence. This will create a pleasing ¼-inch reveal between the panel pieces and rails on the planter's outside faces.

Remember to use a dado blade for this step, as it will give you the precise control needed to cut the grooves accurately.

To make the legs, start by ripping the rails to width and each 4×4 down to 2 ¼ x 2 ¼ inches.

Silva uses a saw blade for this step, which is a more precise option than a dado blade.

He then makes a tapering jig to cut a 2.75-degree taper on the inward-facing sides of the lower legs.

The taper is cut 8 inches from the leg's end, and the same process is repeated for the other sides and legs.

To smooth out the legs, Silva uses sandpaper to get a smooth finish.

If this caught your attention, see: Cedar Raised Planter Box with Legs

Assembling the box is where the magic happens, and it's a crucial step in building your cedar planter box. You'll need to start by assembling one side of the box.

Silva slides the remaining panel pieces into the rails' dadoes, leaving a ¼-inch reveal on the outside. This will give your box a nice, clean look.

To ensure the top rail is flush with the leg's top, Silva uses 1x spacer blocks. This is a great tip to keep in mind, especially if you're new to woodworking.

Before pocket-screwing the rails to the leg, check for a ⅛-inch gap left between the rails and panel pieces. This will help you achieve a smooth, even finish.

As you make the rest of the box's sides, follow the same steps as the first one. This will help you maintain consistency and ensure your box turns out perfectly.

When you reach the last side, screw the top rail to both legs, then fit the panel pieces into the top rail's dado. This will give you a solid base for the rest of the assembly.

Finally, slip the bottom rail over the panel pieces' ends and fasten it to the legs, leaving only a ⅛-inch gap. This will complete the box's frame and get you ready to add the finishing touches.

To create the top of your cedar planter box, you'll need to miter 5/4×6 cedar boards down to the same lengths as listed in the cut list. These boards will form the top of the planter box.

Silva recommends drilling pocket holes in the ends of the long pieces to ensure a strong miter joint. He then glues and clamps the miter joint to keep the faces flush.

Attaching the top to the planter box is a straightforward process. Silva uses pocket screws to secure the top in place, leaving a 1-inch overhang on all sides.

Building the base of the planter box requires some basic framing. Silva cuts four identical crosspieces from 4×4 rip cuts and two identical stringers from dadoed 5/4 x 6 stock.

Related reading: Wood Miter Box

To create the top of your planter box, you'll need to miter 5/4×6 cedar boards down to the same lengths as listed in the cut list.

Silva uses a miter saw to make precise cuts on the cedar boards.

He drills pocket holes in the ends of the long pieces to ensure a strong joint.

Gluing and clamping the miter joint keeps the faces of the boards flush and secure.

Attaching the top to the planter box requires pocket screws, which are left with a 1-inch overhang on all sides for a finished look.

Building the base of your project requires some careful planning and execution.

Silva starts by cutting four identical crosspieces from the 4×4 rip cuts, which will form the framework of the base.

These crosspieces are then fastened in a ladder-like frame using 2 1/2-inch deck screws.

To add some stability, Silva also cuts two identical stringers from the dadoed 5/4 x 6 stock, which will be attached to the crosspieces.

Installing a cedar planter box is a straightforward process, and it starts with assembling the base. Silva slides the base, dadoed edge down, between the bottom rails.

The lower edge of the stringers should be set 3 inches above the bottom rails' lower edge. This ensures stability and even support for the planter box.

Fasten the stringers to the rails with 1 ¼-inch wood screws. This type of screw is ideal for this task due to its length and strength.

To make a cedar planter box, you'll need a few basic tools and some materials from your local hardware store. You can get all the necessary materials from Home Depot or your local hardware store.

You'll need seven 5-1/2″ x 6′ cedar fence post boards for the planter box. Make sure to get the right size to fit your pot.

A 2”x2”x8’ common board will be needed for the frame of the planter box. You can use this to create the corners and edges.

You'll also need a plastic, square flower pot to insert into the wooden planter box. Don't forget to check if it has drainage holes before inserting it.

Some essential tools for this project include a chop saw, a table saw, and a nail gun. You'll also need some nails to secure the boards together.

Here's a list of the materials you'll need: